We Have Moved!

Hi all,

I am pretty encouraged by the response that I have received on this blog for the past 8 months, or so. It has been a pleasure to write reviews for all of you guys to enjoy, and for you all to base your next purchasing decision on.

However, I will no longer be posting on this blog because I am collaborating with a few fellow collectors to bring you better articles and reviews in the horological world. Please do check us out at www.deployant.com

Your continuous support is greatly appreciated.

Warmest regards,

Robin

Swatch Sistem51 [Review]

Blame it on the internet, they say.

It all began when I was surfing the internet using the free Wifi at the Manor departmental store in Lucerne, Switzerland. It was dinner time, and free Wifi is hard to come by in Switzerland. So, while I was busying looking through Facebook, I happened to see a post by a renowned watch blogger, SJX. He mentioned that the Swatch Sistem51 is only available in Switzerland at the moment. And everything else, after that, is history.

Photo taken in Brunnen, Switzerland.

It has been 2 weeks since I first had this watch, and I must say, it has been on my wrist for quite a number of days recently (and I am wearing it as I am writing this!). It is a simple, but fun watch. But what is the fuss all about with the Sistem51?

Launched in the 2013 Baselworld, the Swatch Sistem51 is considered a horological marvel; a piece of history in the making. It is the first mechanical watch that is fully assembled with machines, and its movement (which has 51 components) is held by only one screw. Intriguing.

Its stats are impressive too. 90 hour power reserve. Precision of +/- 10 seconds a day (It is not an expensive watch, so don’t expect COSC standards). Date indicator. “In-house” movement. All in a watch that cost CHF150. But lets ignore the geeky aspect of the watch, shall we?

What I like about this watch is that it is a really simple. Nothing fanciful. Nothing showy. It is a piece that you can just wear with a T-Shirt and Bermuda. It is really light too, since its casing is made in plastic. Yes, not many people will like a watch that is case in plastic, but it is nice to have something different once in a while, right? And while it may sound kiddish, the oscillating weight of the watch is kinda fun to play with, too! Furthermore, the clear caseback display adds a really neat touch to the watch as well.

A Wristshot!

There are several aspects of the watch, however, that I am not quite a fan of. Firstly, it is a little difficult to tell time. This is due to the slightly complex dial design that they have got there. While the design adds a nice touch to the watch, but I would prefer it to be slightly toned down.

Caseback Shot

The second and third problem lies in the picture above. The lugs, as seen in the picture, is a little unorthodox. And because of this, it would be difficult to change the watch strap to another one, since the design is different from the common strap designs that you’d see. Also, the movement is a tad too noisy for my liking. Yes, it is not an expensive watch, but I would have like it to be softer. Perhaps it is just me, but oh well.

I have not tested the accuracy of the watch, but I will do so within the next few days. Overall, this watch is something that I’d add into my collection, in the name of fun. While there are several aspects of the watch that I do not like, but I would cast it aside because frankly, this watch is just simply amazing. At this kind of price, and with its technological marvel, you would quickly forgive the “loudness” of the movement, or the confusing dial. It goes back to the fundamental reason of why I like watches- the creative and ingenious aspect of watchmaking. The movement and the watchmaking process itself is a horological marvel, and this is just the tip of the iceberg. Mark my words. This is the future of watchmaking.

(P.S. While I mentioned that this is the future of watchmaking, I still expect the marque brands to craft their watches using the traditional way, with the human touch. But this technology will pave way for more affordable mechanical watches, which will allow more people to join in the ranks of owning a piece of mechanical watch. And this is something that I definitely welcome.)

Pros:

– Lightweight (which, on the other hand, can be a con for others as well)

– Relatively cheap for a mechanical watch

– Long power reserve

Cons:

– Slight difficulty in reading the time with complex dial design

– Noisy movement

– Weird lug design

More shots of the watch:

Thanks for reading the review. Look out for the next watch review soon!

A Tale of Two Legends: The Rolex Submariner and the Mercedes-Benz 190E Cosworth 2.5-16V Evoluzione II [Review]

I am sure there are many question marks above your head right now. Yes, why am I talking about these two machines together in a same post? Simple, there are just so much in common between these two great machines made by mankind.

The 1:18 Scaled Version of the 190E Cosworth Evo II

The Mercedes-Benz 190E Cosworth, especially the 2.5-16V Evoluzione II version, is what I considered one of the most mystical and interesting machines that was made by mankind. And there is little doubt about its desirability. In its heydays, it was considered the pinnacle of automotive manufacturing; thanks to its technological advances, sheer power and performance. Initially designed to compete in high-profile motor racing, it was used to compete in the DTM (Deutsche Tourenwagen Meisterschaft) series instead. Road-going versions were created in order for the car to be eligible for racing, and yes, that was how the road-going 190E Cosworth was born.

The Rolex Submariner Reference 114060

On the other hand, the Rolex Submariner was made in the 1950s, to compete with other brands in the category of making dive watches. When it was first launched, it wasn’t really popular. It was in the 60s that the watch received its cult status, after Sean Connery worn it in a few James Bond films. Over the years, it has undergone several updates, and we ended up with the Reference 114060 Submariner right now presently.

Even though their history are slightly different, they do share many common points. Firstly, they are considered, as mentioned, the pinnacle in their own fields when they are conceived. Their technological advances are unparalleled at that time, and up to today, some of the technological marvels are still very relevant in their own fields. Secondly, they are highly desirable by collectors. Even though the 190E ‘Cossie’ Evo II is more rare (only 502 were made), both of them are highly sought after, especially the earlier examples of the Submariner (such as the reference 5513, 6200, etc). It is just something that everyone wants. Some wanted it for the sake of status symbol, while others wanted it for the sake of collecting and appreciating these machines. Any either way, it still asserts the fact that they are on the wishlist of many people around the world. I could go on and on, but to avoid being long-winded and diverting from our area of focus, I shall stop right here and begin to review the Rolex Submariner (Reference 114060).

A Close-Up Shot of the Reference 114060

The Reference 114060 is one of the latest variant of the Submariner that is offered by Rolex. Many people would have realized that it look pretty similar to the Reference 14060 Submariner, which is its predecessor (Okay, actually Submariners all look similar, since its inception in the 50s…). I would agree, but there are several subtle differences between the Reference 14060 and the Reference 114060. One of the most obvious ones would be the ceramic bezel on the Reference 114060, in which it substituted the aluminium bezel that was present on its predecessor. Other differences include the improved bracelet design, different lume colour, newer movement, wider lugs, maxi dial and the clasp design (this are what I can think of, not sure if there are other differences or not though…). Would I pick the Reference 114060 over its predecessor? Yes, and it is simply because I LOVE the ceramic bezel. It gives the watch a better “feel”, and yes, the colour looks different under different lighting conditions too! On top of that, it is more scratch-resistant. The only downside that I can think of right now is that it tends to be easier to shatter, and its replacement doesn’t comes cheap.

The New Oysterlock Folding Clasp with the Rolex Glidelock Extension System

I personally like the new clasp design. With the new “Rolex Glidelock Extension System”, it makes it easier to resize the length of the bracelet, without having to remove the spring bar and reattaching it to clasp. The clasp also feels more secure. The Oysterlock clasp makes it more secure, since the watch is “locked” twice. This is present (or something similar is being used) in the previous model too, but I am not sure if it feels similar to the one used in the Reference 114060. This is a big plus point as compared to the clasps offered by other watchmakers, such as Omega. While I personally can’t really find faults with Omega’s clasps, it just doesn’t feels as secure as this one. Psychological reasons, perhaps.

 The Side Profile and Wrist Shot of the Submariner Reference 114060

Having owned this watch for 10 months, I would say that this is a very comfortable watch to wear. One of the reasons is due to the fact that its famous ‘Oyster Case’ and the movement is not very thick, which makes it easy on the wrists itself. It has got some weight, but it is not too heavy on the wrists. It feels perfect for me. Another reason is that with its size at 40mm, it is neither too big nor too small on the wrists, for mine at least. Another big plus is its legibility; the contrasting black dial and the while hands and indices makes it very easy to tell time.

 Another (Poorly Taken) Wrist Shot…

Back to the ceramic bezel. It feels very solid when it is turned, unlike some other watches. In my opinion, this bezel is one of the best that I have played around with, as it is neither too difficult nor easy to turn it. It just requires the right amount of force to turn the bezel, which makes it a pleasing experience. Also, as mentioned, the bezel insert was made from ceramic, or what Rolex calls “Cerachrom”. The numerals and graduations are coated with platinum, which adds a nice touch to the watch itself. Overall, this is one of the best bezel/ bezel insert that I’ve seen amongst its competitors.

Having had this watch for 10 months, I feel that this is one of the best tool watches that you can find in the market itself. No doubt there are competitors who are able to give the Submariner a run for its money, but they are still not as good as the Submariner. There is a reason why Submariners have been around for nearly 60 years; it is the paragon of what a good tool watch should be. It is reliable, durable, comfortable and presentable. It is versatile too; you can wear it a T-Shirt or a suit. It will not look out of place. Furthermore, its design is iconic, and it is something that will not go out of fashion.

There are many variants of the Submariner out there, such as the Submariner Date (the Reference 116610LN), the Hulk (Reference 116610LV), the Two-Tone (Reference 116613LB) and so on. For me, the Reference 114060 is my choice as is the closest that one can get to the original Submariner. Furthermore, I like how it looks clean and symmetrical, unlike the ones with the Date and Cyclops. But to be very frank, you’ll never go wrong with a Submariner, be it the one with the Date or the No Date version. In my opinion, it is as good as what an ideal tool watch should be, and I don’t know how Rolex can further improve it. But well, the same thing has been said years back, when the Reference 14060 was launched. And look where we are now. Heck, we should probably just sit back, enjoy the watch and let Rolex surprise us once again with their future creations!

Specifications (from Rolex):

Casing: Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Diameter: 40mm

Material: 904L steel

Bezel: Unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated, scratch-resistant Cerachrom insert in ceramic, numerals and graduations coated in platinum

Winding Crown: Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire

Water-Resistance: Waterproof to 300 metres / 1,000 feet

Movement: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding, Calibre 3130, Manufacture Rolex

Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Precision: Officially certified Swiss chronometer (COSC)

Oscillator: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring

Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Bracelet: Oyster, flat three-piece links

Bracelet Material: 904L Steel

Clasp: Folding  Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Dial: Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

The Good:

– Iconic deisgn

– Comfortable and versatile

– Rugged and reliable to wear

– Ceramic bezel adds a nice touch to the watch itself

The Bad:

– The price is slightly high for a three-hand simple watch

The Ugly:

– None

Thank God it’s Friday: SevenFriday P2-02 [Review]

Howdy folks, it has been quite sometime, yeah? These few months have been pretty horrendous, with so much stress and tension and all. I’m glad it’s all going to be over… Soon.

Anyways, this “exam stress” thingy had driven me to do many crazy stuffs. Including the purchase of a new watch. Okay, it wasn’t exactly new watch, since the previous owner wore it a couple of times. But with its condition, it can be passed off as a new one, easily. So, I happened to saw the previous owner putting it up for sale, and the next thing I knew, I dropped him a message and the watch was mine the next day.

The SevenFriday P2-02 with my breakfast that day

It was a relatively quick deal, which was done within 10 minutes or so. The two pictures above were taken on the day itself, just moments after the previous owner sold the watch to me. I was absolutely stoked when I received this watch. I had wanted to own a SevenFriday watch since it first came out at around March or April this year, but I’ve always thought that the price was too high at that point of time. I was wrong. The resale market price for this watch just kept on escalating, no thanks to the long waiting list for this watch in Singapore. And so, one fine day, when I was browsing a watch trading site, a P2-02 was placed on sale at a relatively good price. On top of the pretty nice price tag, it was the P2-2 variant, which was released recently. The black and gold combination was really pretty, and that was why I wanted to have this watch. This particular one.

The SevenFriday P2-02

One of the main selling point of the watch is the so-called “industrial” looking design. No doubt, it made the watch looks way more cooler and expensive that it was supposed to be. For a sub $1000 watch, this is definitely an eye-catching piece. A conversational piece. It was really refreshing to see something so unorthodox from the watch industry, at a price that is relatively affordable. Hats off to them for pulling such a great job.

Close up shot of the SevenFriday P2-02

Even though the watch looks really cool, it is pretty much difficult to tell the time. The hands and the dials are too cluttered, and it needs some time to get used to the design. The rotating disk that was used to substitute the “second hands” was a touch of a genius though. It was something really different, and in fact, I don’t think I’ve seen this before. It gives the watch a futuristic look, something that comes from the future. Having said that, I thought the 24 hour counter was a little redundant though. It would have been better had it been used a second timezone indicator. But still, it looks really aesthetically pleasing, and something that is really unconventional in the watch making industry.

The tang buckle and caseback for the SevenFriday

There are several more positives when it comes to this watch. The tang buckle that was mounted on the straps were really cute and it compliments the watch really well. Talking about the straps, it was really well done. The leather used was really soft, the stitching was done up really nicely. It was really comfortable to put on the wrists and wear it.

The caseback was really well done too. Even though nobody really sees the caseback when the watch is being worn, but I am glad that the SevenFriday team actually took the effort to design the caseback. The inscriptions gave the watch a more industrial look that the company is trying to achieve. Kudos for that.

 Wristshot!

The case itself was really nicely done up too. Due to the design of the lugs, and of course the leather strap, it makes the watch a really comfortable one to wear. It sits on my wrist really nicely, albeit its case dimension is 47mm. I rarely own big watches because they are usually uncomfortable to wear, but SevenFriday has done a great job on this aspect. Because of its hidden lugs, it did not stick out of my wrist, and thus it doesn’t looks or feels oversized.

More wristshots!

Overall, this watch is a really nice piece. It looks cool, it wears comfortable, and it is relatively affordable. There are two concerns, though. Firstly, for a sub $1000 watch, using Miyota movements is not the way to go. Yes, it is reliable, but watches that use Miyota movements are those that cost slightly below a grand. It is a little too, for the lack of a better word, cheapskate to use this instead of a better movement, in my opinion. Maybe it is used to keep the price low, but this is certainly not the way to go. Secondly, while the company has came up with a great design and concept with the P1,P2 and P3 variants, but they are all the same watch, using different case materials and colour schemes. I hate to say this, but if the company wants to be successful, they should come up with different designs for their watches. It is, in my opinion, not sustainable if one keeps on using the same old design. It will not work this way. In fact, some of the other colour schemes look really horrible, no offense intended. Click on the link to see what I mean

(http://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/sevenfriday-orange-blue-green-black-gold-pictures-917434.html)

 

Specifications

• Brand: SevenFriday
• Gender: Unisex
• Material: PVD
• Movement: Miyota 82S7
• Strap Type: Leather Strap
• Diameter: 47mm
• Clasp: Tang Buckle
• Dial Colour: Black and Gold
• Glass: Mineral Glass
• Power Reserve: 40 Hours
• Water Resistance: 30M
• Guarantee: 2 Years
• Product Code: P2-02

 

The Good:

– Refreshing design and look

– Conversational Piece

– Comfortable to wear, despite its size

 

The Bad:

– The movement

 

The Ugly:

– None

 

Overall, this is a really nice watch. A watch that should easily fit into anyone’s collection. In my opinion, the P2-02’s colour scheme works very well, and I would choose this over the P1s, P2-01 or the P3s. Thanks for reading my review, and do keep a lookout for the next one! 🙂

A Letter to My Readers

Dear Readers,

 

These 3 months have been a really wonderful journey for me. I never thought that I would have received so much support from all of you guys. This blog wouldn’t have been possible without you all.

As some of you know, I will be taking my “A” Levels this year, in fact in less than 2 months’ time. Therefore, I would like to focus on my examinations first, and as a result I will be taking a hiatus from writing. Hope you guys will understand, and don’t worry, there will be more exciting contents once I am back! Stay tune, and here is a sneak peek of what you all can expect!

 

The Rolex Oysterdate Precision Ref: 6694

 

The Rolex Submariner Ref: 114060

 

See you all soon!

Regards,

Robin Lim

[Thoughts] Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève 2013

Well, the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (or GPHG, for short) is here again, for the 2013 edition.

For those who don’t know what GPHG is, it is an annual event that showcases the art of watchmaking, in which various prizes given out to watches or watchmakers that are considered the best in its own category. It is the Swiss watch industry’s most prestigious award competition.

In this year’s edition, there are 10 categories of “Pre-Selected watches” that are already out, mainly the “Grande Complication watch”, “Ladies’ watch”, “Ladies’ Complication watch”, “Men’s Watch”, “Men’s Complication watch”, “Innovation watch”, “Jewellery watch”, “Artistic Crafts watch”, “Sports watch” and the “Petite Aiguille watch”.

Well, even though I am not part of the jury in the competition, but hey, this can’t stop me from selecting my favourite watches from each category right? Let us begin then, without further ado! (Please note that the views expressed are my opinions only. Please don’t kill me if you strongly disagree with my choice :D)

The Grande Complication Watches

As the title suggests, watches in this category will contain complications, such as Perpetual Calender to Tourbillions. The pre-selected watches in this category are really amazing, aesthetically and mechanically. Among the 7 watches in the category, I’d say my two favourites would be the A. Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calender and Greubel Forsey’s GMT. In my opinion, the complications of these two watches are amazing, with the Lange possessing some features such as the Perpetual Calender, Split Second Chronograph and Moonphrase, and the latter possessing interesting functions such as the Tourbillion, Global Time and the Second Time Zone.

[Verdict]

In my humble opinion, I would pick the A Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. It was a tough decision, especially since Greubel Forsey’s piece was really aesthetically staggering (and the globe at the 7.30 position is just, for the lack of a better work, amazing). However, complications wise, the Lange edged out, especially with its Split Second Chronograph and the Perpetual Calendar. And of course, it is still aesthetically pleasing, after all.

The A. Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The Ladies’ Watches

The watches in this category is obviously for the ladies. Even without the title, the diamond-laced watches, without a doubt, will definitely attract the ladies already. As a member of the male population, it is obviously not my forte to pick watches that I believe a lady would like. But there is no harm trying here, I guess? Two watches, out of the seven, stood out here. The Zenith Pilot  d’Aéronef Type 20 “40 mm Lady” and the Louis Moinet Stardance. In my opinion, they are aesthically pleasing and they look more like watches, rather than jewellery pieces to me. The Chopard Happy Sport came close, but I feel that it is leaning too close to a jewellery, rather than watch.

[Verdict]

While I am a big fan of both watches, the Louis Moinet gets my vote. It is just so gorgeous and elegant. And don’t get me started on the “Mother of Pearl” dial, as well as its wavy dial designs. The Moonphase is done beautifully as well, and I really think it is one of the most beautiful Moonphases that I’ve ever seen before. This is definitely a clear winner here.

The Louis Moinet “Stardance” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The Ladies’ Complication Watches

Once again, I have to do something in which I am not good at. But oh well. The watches here are less complicated than the Men’s, but do not let that fool you. Some pieces here have very impressive complications as well. For example, Van Cleef and Arpel’s  has a double retrograde hands, and Bovet 1822’s “Recital 9 Tourbillion Miss Alexandra” has, well, Tourbillion. But well, the diamonds here are probably more interesting to a majority of the females. Oops. Did I just generalised the female watch collectors? Sorry!

[Verdict]

I’d say that Van Cleef and Arpels’ “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee” is the winner here. Even though it does not have a Tourbillion or a Minute Repeater, but its Retrograde hands and the “Time on Demand” complication is simply intriguing. And oh, did I mention that it looks really beautiful too?

Van Cleef and Arpels’ “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Men’s Watch

The selection of the pre-selected winners here are pretty diversified. Here, you have value for money pieces like the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, to the more exclusive pieces like the Voutilainen V-8R. They vary in complications too, with “three-hand watches” like the Baume & Mercier’s Clifton 1830 and Tudor’s Black Bay, to more complicated watches like Urban Jurgensen & Sonner’s offerings which has got Power Reserve.

[Verdict]

The MB&F’s Horological Machine No.5 “On the Road Again” gets my vote this time. Its futuristic designs, as well as its uniqueness, has outshone the other competing watches. While both H. Moser & Cie’s Mayu and Voutilainen’s V-8R make good dress watches for the male, but the MB&F is just so different. So distinct. So outstanding among the rest. And the best part is, does this watch reminds you of the sexy Lamborghini Miura from the 60s?

The MB&F’s Horological Machine No.5 “On the Road Again” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Men’s Complications Watch

Again, this category is very diversified. We have watches that has simpler complications, like Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue, to more complicated ones like Fonderie 47’s Inversion Principle. There are many pieces in this category which are really desirable, especially De Bethune’s DB28 Skybridge and Greubel Forsey’s Double Balanicer 35°. While watches here may not be as complicated as the ones from “Grande Complications”, but nevertheless, the watches here are more than enough for normal day-to-day usage.

[Verdict]

Quoted from GPHG’s website:

“A true first in Horology, The Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed‐oscillators.
This unique regulating system comprises two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates via the gear train to the time display.”

Isn’t that good enough for it to win the award? And combined with its looks, I see no reason why it is not good enough to win this category. Of course, De Bethune is really beautiful too, but complications wise, the Greubel Forsey wins hands down.

The Greubel Forsey’s Double Balanicer 35° (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Innovation Watches

Ah well, this is where all the creative juices from watchmakers come together to create timepieces that are well, just out of this world. Literally. This is definitely one of the most difficult category to pick. There are just simply too many special and innovative watches here. HYT’s offering is definitely one of the more special ones, since it uses hydraulics to display time. And who can forget the offerings from Ressence and Vianney Halter? They are all so unique in their own ways. It’s really a marvel to see how innovative ideas can be squeezed into something that is so small. These guys here really have my (and deserves) my respect.

[Verdict]

The Ressence Type 3 is my choice here.

Quoted from GPHG:

“The display system is bathed in an oil-type fluid that eliminates the refraction of the light projecting the image onto the glass and is hermetically separated from the mechanical movement connected via a magnetic transmission. Time is displayed by revolving co-planar convex discs. A Faraday cage protects the movement.”

All these things. They are all in a 44mm package. Who would have thought of that? And the looks of it, it’s just like something that comes out from a Sci-Fi movie. It just looks so unreal. I wonder how many brain cells have been sacrificed to come up with such an innovative watch.

The Ressence Type 3 (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Sports Watches

I am skipping both the “Jewellery Watches” and the “Artistic Craft Watches”. Sorry, I don’t want to undergo the trouble of choosing watches that I do not really appreciate. I am just not that kind of artistic person. Forgive me.

Well, I digressed. Sports watches are something very popular these days, due to its versatility. You can wear it with a suit, or just with a simple T-Shirt. Anything goes. And nobody here will disagree with me when it comes to their ruggedness. They are just so reliable, and they make really good “daily beaters”, for day-to-day usage. There are some choices here that are questionable, such as the Habring2’s Doppel 3, but there are many watches here which fits the bill really well, such as Tudor’s Pelagos, Chopard’s Superfast Power Control and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver. And who can forget Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th, the first watch which broke the sound barrier when it accompanied Felix Baumgartner on his epic adventure?

[Verdict]

it was a close fight between AP, Tudor and the Zenith. Tudor came in third, not because it was not good, but then it simply lacks the “wow factor” that the other two possess. While the AP is a timeless classic, the winner goes to Zenith. It has a 1/10th of a second and Flyback chronograph, a classical design, and it broke the sound barrier. This is more than you could ever ask for. ‘Nuff said.

The Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The “Petite Aiguille” Watches

Ok, this is intriguing. What is this award? Well, the prize of “La Petite Aiguille” is awarded to the best watch of the year whose price is under 5,000 Swiss francs ($5,166 USD). While our eyes have feasted on eye-watering watches which has got exorbitant price tags, lets not forget about the simpler, and equally amazing watches that are price relatively more affordable too. There are so many watches here that are deserving of this award, such as the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield, to the Chopard Mille Miglia 2013. For under 5,000 Swiss Francs, it is amazing how you can get watches that have some great complications.

[Verdict]

While I may have preferred more complicated watches, the Speake-Marin Spirit MKII gets my vote. What makes it stands out from the others is that is from an independent watchmaker, and to offer something below 5,000 Swiss Franc is something that is really remarkable for an independent. The quality of the watch is simply exceptional too. I may not be a fortune-teller, but I can definitely tell you that Speake-Marin is an up-and-coming brand, and I have no doubts that they will be up against the big names someday. Mark my words. This is just the tip of the iceberg.

  The Speake-Marin Spirit MKII (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Well, this is the end of my report on the Pre-Selected watches from the GPHG. Some of my choices may no doubt be controversial, but with so many exceptional watches here, it is really difficult to pick a winner for each category. Thanks for reading, and do share your thoughts on you have any, especially if it is regarding my choices! And please do share your choices too. It’d be interesting to see what your perspectives are.

Dancing Divas: The Dievas Kampfschwimmer

Wow, it’s been nearly a month since I last published an article. August has been a very hectic month for me, with revisions and examinations. I hope this review is able to satisfy you all after having wait for so long.

 

The Dievas Kampfschwimmer. One of the watches that I have been lusting since a few months back, after seeing fellow forum members posting pictures of their Dievas California Dial watches online. I’ve been fascinated by its simplicity and of course, its vintage looks. It took some time for me to acquire this watch, as I was trying to save up for it. So finally, I managed to get it a couple of months back…

 

From my collection, I am sure all of you have seen a pattern in terms of the size of my watches. The biggest watch I own is the Submariner (I just sold off my Seiko this afternoon, so look out for the new watch that I am going to acquire soon!), which is only about 40mm. The Dievas Kampfschwimmer is gigantic in my opinion, for its diameter is a whooping 47mm! While I maintain that I am pretty overweight, but my wrists are still considered small. That’s why I have never ventured into collecting big watches. I guess this was an exception.

 

The 47mm Dievas Kampfschwimmer. Its BIG!

 

Ok, the following is my personal opinion (Please, Dievas and Panerai or any watchmakers that make similar, big watches. Don’t kill me. Hahaha!) It is way too big for me. Yes, many people can pull off a 47mm watch. I can’t. No doubt the wire lugs made it more comfortable to wear, but it is just too big. This is tantamount to lugging a piece of small rock on my wrists! And the buckles. They are way over-sized! Some people thinks that it is nice, but in my opinion, this is overdoing things already. I don’t see why there is a need to inflate the size of the buckle to such a proportion. 

 

The Dievas Kampfschwimmer with the BIGASS buckle.

 

I admit I was biased. If not for the vintage and simplistic looks, I would not have even considered buying the watch. Admittedly, the watch looks good in this proportion, and I think if it was shrunk to 44mm or even 40mm, it would have looked slightly queer. But still, as long as my wrists are not big enough (surprisingly), I would not be able to pull a similar sized watch. On the brighter side, I can at least save some money, since these “Pam Homages” or Panerai watches are not really cheap. And the straps. Don’t even get me started on that. 

 

But lets move on. There are several noteworthy point of this watch. I have seen many “Pam Homages”, but this is definitely one of the better ones. The finishing is very well done, and it feels very solid. Dievas even bothered to decorate the Unitas 6479 movement with the “Cote de Geneva” finishing, which was really remarkable for a fairly affordable watch. 

 

 

The Unitas 6479 Movement with the “Cote De Geneve” Finishing

 

The lume of the watch is exceptional too. The lume is applied onto the dial itself (there are other variants for this watch, in which some have the “sandwich” dial), and it illuminates very well at night. Another interesting feature would be the blue hands on the watch itself, for it is unable to turn into different shades of blue under different lighting condition! (Fine, I may have exaggerated this point, but it is really cool)

 

 

The dial of the watch. No lume shots though, as my camera is pretty bad….

 

At just slightly over a grand (And I got mine at a cheaper price, since this is a “used” model), the attention to detail was fairly amazing. This is definitely very valuable for money, and if you have bigger wrists, you might want to consider this watch. From fellow forum members, I have heard that it is very comfortable to wear (which I can’t attest to, unfortunately…), since it is cushion shaped and the leather from Dievas itself is very soft. So, if you all have the time, you all can head down to Gnomon watches to try it out yourself. 

 

Specifications (from Dievas website):

• Maker: Dievas Watch Company
• Movement: Swiss Unitas 6497 mechanical movement with Côtes de Genève and blued screws
• Dial: Black California dial. Blue hands.
• Luminance: Vintaged lume. Luminova.
• Case: High polished 316L stainless steel. Contoured sides.
• Case Back: Display or Steel back. Dievas signed polished screwdown stainless steel
• Bezel: High polished 316L stainless steel.
• Crown: 3mm Diamond shaped crown
• Lug: 26mm. Removeable.
• Crystal: Domed scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Strap: Thick calf leather strap with vintage knife edge sewn-in buckle
• Water resistance: 30m
• DimensionsL47mm in diameter, 52mm lug to lug, 13mm thick
• Power Reserve: ~42 hours

 

The Good:

– Excellent Finishing

– “Cote De Geneva” Stripes

– Really comfortable and nice leather strap

– Value for Money

 

The Bad:

– Not much, except the size (for me)

 

The Ugly:

-The Buckle. Oops.

 

Some ‘Dancing Divas’ shot with the Focal to end off the review…

 

Thanks for reading the review, and do keep a lookout for my next review! Do subscribe and follow my blog as well. 

 

Focal Point: The Dievas Focal

I don’t know how I should put it. On one hand, it seems like ladyluck had befallen on me, for my friend Edmund (P88 from SG-ROC), had offered to lend me his Dievas Focal for me to do up a review. On the other hand, for that one week, something had tugged my heartstrings once again. Yes, it is that same damn watch. That’s bad, especially for my wallet. It’s just one of those things in life, where things didn’t go as planned….

A little more about Dievas. Dievas is a watchmaker, based in Stuttgart, Germany. Since the 2006, it has been making watches, in which it is divided into three range, mainly the Professional Diver range, the Tactical range, as well as the Vintage range. The Focal falls into the Tactical range, while the Kampfschwimmer obviously falls into the Vintage range. Do take a look at the website (http://www.dievaswatches.com/index.html), or if you are in Singapore, do head down to Gnomon Watches (http://www.gnomonwatches.com/watches/dievas-watches) to take a look at their collection. In my opinion, Dievas’ selections are really value-for-money, and I am sure many owners will agree with me on this as well.

So, back to the watch. When Edmund heard that I had bought the Dievas Kampfschwimmer Vintage California, he asked me if I am interested to have his Dievas Focal for a week or two to do a comparison and a review on both watches. Of course, as an enthusiast, there is no way that I could say NO to such an offer. So, on that faithful day, I took one watch out, but came back with three. And the rest is history, after that. (Of course, I did received an earful for buying another watch once again, but I’ll save that for the next story….)

The Dievas Focal

When I first received this watch, I thought, “Hey this looks pretty nice, but there isn’t anything special about it”. Yes, I know I was wrong, but that is the first impression that you’ll have when you first took a glance at this piece. It is plain and simple, save for the conspicuous bright yellow “FOCAL” emblem on the dial of the watch. And except that, the watch has nothing to shout about. Must have been due to the German DNA that was in the watch. Hahaha.

Initially, the watch came with the Dievas rubber strap, which was slightly too big for my wrist. Edmund recommended me to change it to the leather strap, and boy, what a difference it made! Not sure if it was the interplay between the straps and the lugs, but it felt very comfortable on my wrist. Even though from lug to lug it seems to big for me, but trust me, it doesn’t feels really big, unlike my Dievas Kampfschwimmer.

The Wrist Shot of the Dievas Focal

One of the main features of the watch is that it is finished in Tegimented Steel. It is basically a hardened steel that is pretty much more scratch resistant than many Stainless Steel watch. This is really good for clumsy people like me, who tends to knock my watch onto other things. According to Dievas, which they gave it a fanciful name called “6STEEL”, it is the hardening of the actual steel and not just a foreign coating. I wouldn’t want to bore you with the process of making it, but basically it involves the increase in carbon atoms on the steel itself, which hardens it in the process. The end result is superb, and not to mention, the finishing is really good too.

Talking about the finish, I have nothing but praises for the bezel of this watch. Unlike my Seiko Fifty-Five-Fathoms, I absolutely love the bezel of the watch. In my opinion, this is how a bezel should feels like when it is turned. It feels really solid and sturdy. Not sure if the 6STEEL plays  apart here though. HAHAHA.

Another selling point of the watch, even though it is pretty useless here, is the water resistant level of the watch. According to Dievas, it is water resistant up to the depth of 500m. Of course, one should never complain about this, but I doubt most of us would use the watch to this sort of extent anyways. Talk about German and its engineering once again.

Of course, the watch is not perfect. One of the reason why I didn’t get the Tudor Black Bay is due to the funny looking rectangular hands. And this appeared in the Focal once again, which I thought was a pity. I am not a fan of such hands, but it is even worst here, for the minute hand and the hour hand are different in design (sword hands vs rectangular hands).

The Crown and the Helium Escape Valve

Another issue is the crown. Not sure if my fingers are too fat, but I had a difficult time screwing in the crown after I had adjusted the timing of the watch. This might be a safety feature for the watch, I don’t know, but I certainly do not fancy it.

The Dievas Focal

Overall, this is a very good watch to own. In fact, I want to own one. Yes, it is not flawless, but once you’ve worn this watch, trust me, you’ll overlook the flaws of this watch. It is so comfortable, as compared to the Kampfschwimmer, and yet so solid at the same time. Not sure if my wallet will agree with me on this though…

With its “Bro”, the Kampfschwimmer

Specifications:

Maker: Dievas Uhren Technik

Movement: Swiss Made Dievas modified ETA2824-2 automatic movement

Dial: Black dial. Index.

Luminance: SuperLuminova.

Case: Micro-blasted. Dievas 6Steel – Hardened Steel; Scratch Resistant

Case Back: Dievas signed. Dievas 6Steel – Hardened Steel; Scratch Resistant

Bezel: Uni-directional. Micro-blased. Dievas 6Steel – Hardened Steel; Scratch Resistant

Crown: 5mm screwdown crown. Dievas 6Steel – Hardened Steel; Scratch Resistant

Lug: 22mm.

Crystal: Domed scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Strap: Molded anti-static Italian rubber strap with machined heavy duty deployant clasp and diver suit extension. Additional G10 NATO Military strap.

Water resistance: 500m

Dimensions: 45mm in diameter, 54mm lug to lug, 14.5mm thick

Power Reserve: ~42 hours

 

 

The Good:

– The (more) scratch resistant 6STEEL case

– It wears comfortably despite its size

– The solid bezel

– Decent lume

– Simplistic design

– Value for Money

– 2 Years Warranty

The Bad:

– Weird design for the hands

– Difficulties in screwing in the crowns

The ugly:

– None

The Final Wrist Shot

Thanks for reading the review, and do keep a lookout for my next review on the Kampfschwimmer! Do subscribe and follow my blog as well. 🙂

“Fathom” of the Opera: the Seiko Fifty Five Fathoms

“Wait, doesn’t that watch looks familiar?” would be the usual responses that I would receive whenever I wear this watch out. And yes, there is a (or maybe two) good reasons why. First, it is a mod from another Seiko watch, and secondly, it resembles a vintage Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. In fact, it is sort of a homage to that watch. Hence, the name, Fifty Five Fathoms.

A little more about this watch. This watch was actually derived from some overseas watch forum (either WatchUSeek, or some Spanish watch forum, I can’t remember exactly which one) and soon after, it spreads like wildfire to other watch forums. I’m sure it’s simplistic design, as well as the fact of it being priced reasonably, is the reason for it’s high popularity. Incidentally, I sort of got interested into this watch when I was surfing WUS….

So, the adventure began in mid-March, when I was surfing WUS during my Geography lecture in school. I chanced upon this post where I saw people doing wrists-shots, and there it was, the Seiko Fifty Five Fathom, in one of the posts. It was love at first sight. Immediately, I started to plan on how to get this watch. I did saw some posts on watch forums where people are selling their Seiko FFFs, but it was kind of expensive. So instead, I decided to go the cheaper, but more tedious way, in which I would be sourcing for the parts and the watch myself, instead of buying a ready-made one. This would have saved me at least 30%-40% in total.

The first thing I did after I have laid out my plan was to purchase the base Seiko model, the Seiko 5 SNZH57K1. It was not easy, since a retail piece would be expensive. It was a blessing that I’ve managed to purchase one from a fellow forumer in SG-ROC at a relatively reasonable rate. But this was not the tedious part, yet.

The obligatory wrist shot of the Seiko 5 SNZH57K1

The difficult thing about this watch was finding the dial. Yes, Yobokies have ready-made dials, and they are reasonably priced, but I was afraid the dial would be damaged during the shipping process. So, I posted in my local watch forum to find the piece of “holy grail” for this watch. Albeit this took a long time (around 1 to 2 months), the wait was worth it. When I got my hands on the dial, I immediately took it to Uncle Goh (from K2 Watch) the next day to replace the dial. This is the end product, the Seiko FFF.

 The Seiko Fifty Five Fathoms

I have been wearing this watch for nearly a month now (the FFF, not the basic SNZH57K1) and I must say that this watch is extremely value for money. It may be inexpensive, but it is very versatile, and a very “fun” watch to wear. It has become one of my daily beaters now (besides the Hamilton), due to the fact that it is versatile (as mentioned), very understated, and yet aesthetically pleasing. The lume is pretty good too! No wonder I have not paid attention to my lecturers’ classes recently. Another positive point is that the case is sized appropriately at 42mm, without crown. It feels comfortable on the wrists, since it is not too large, as well as the fact that the lugs are curved at the end, which makes it even more easy on the wrists.

The side view of the Seiko FFF.

By now, you’ve noticed that I didn’t use the Seiko 5 bracelet, but a Paros leather strap instead (with a deployment buckle, from Darkie), as the metal bracelet feels a little “cheap”. Also, the strap makes the watch looks better, and giving it a more “vintage” feel.

See what I mean?

Also, for an inexpensive watch, I am pleased that it came with a see-through case back, which allows me to admire the Seiko 7s36B 23-Jewel Auto with Day/Date. Even though it is sort of an unfinished movement, but nevertheless, it was pretty much a job well done. 

The caseback shots of the Seiko FFF

The watch is not a perfectly flawless one though. I have two main issues with the watch, which is the power reserve and the bezel. The power reserve for this model isn’t really good, and it can only last for slightly more than a day at most (around 30 hours, plus and minus), which is a pity. Would have been better if the power reserve can be extended to 48 hours or so, but well, that would have added on to the price of the watch. Also, the bezel is a little too “easy” to turn, and thus the “triangle” may not be point at the 12 o’clock position after you’ve worn it for quite some time. However, that can be rectified by asking your watchmaker to “tighten” the bezel, in which I’ll recommend Uncle Goh from K2, for his service is priced reasonably, and the fella is a really friendly dude. Overall, this watch is pretty good for its value, and even though it is not as good as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, but I am sure that this watch would suffice as a temporal gratification.

The Seiko Fifty Five Fathoms

The Good:

– Great Value for Money

– Versatility

– The “Fun” Factor

– A very cheap alternative (and temporary gratification) to the legendary Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

– Perfectly Sized (in my opinion)

– Decent Lume

The Bad:

– Easily Rotatable Bezel

– Short Power Reserve

The Ugly

– None

Specifications:

Case: Polished and Brushed Stainless Steel
Movement: Seiko 7s36B 23-Jewel Auto with Day/Date
Dial: Customed Fifty Five Fathoms Dial
Bezel: 120 Click Unidirectional with Blue Acrylic Insert
Lens: Domed Hardlex
Case Back: Screwdown Display Back
Strap: Steel Bracelet (Original), mine comes with a Paros Leather Strap
Water Res.: 10atm (100m/330ft)
Dimensions: 42m, 45mm to crown
Crown: Pull-out
Thickness: 14mm
Lug Width: 22mm

Thanks for reading my review! Do keep a lookout for more watch reviews and other articles, and please follow my page to keep yourself updated of any new contents on this site!

Watch Collecting: What Has It Taught Me?

Recently, I came across this post by Dr Bernard Cheong (http://www.deployant.com/2013/06/why-how-i-pick-my-fave-watches-by-dr.html) and I was pretty inspired by what was written in that entry itself. It kind of sets me thinking, and hence I would like to share about my journey from horology thus far, and what I have learnt from this hobby itself (even though it has been a pretty short journey, and my collection at the moment is just, well, modest as compared to the others…)

The first watch that got me into watch collecting is the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz, which was initially a gift from the SAF to my dad, who passed it down to me because he doesn’t need it. That was the first proper watch that I actually own, and if I am not wrong, I got it when I was in Secondary 4 (so I was 16 at that time…). Owning the Hamilton has taught me plenty of stuffs. It has taught me what humility and simplicity was. It was not a fanciful watch (mind you, it was a quartz…), but it has served me as a daily beater well for 3 years, without any major issues or whatsoever. It’s just an understated piece, one that would just work when you needed it to do so. It has taught me that life doesn’t need to be extravagant. It is just so simple, but yet it is so versatile and reliable. Absolutely nothing to complain about, and it is just a pleasure to own this piece.

 

The Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

The next watch is the Omega Seamaster Caliber 562 (which I have talked about in my previous post). It was incidentally the first watch which I have bought with my own money. It has taught me about love, memories and how I should treasure stuffs before it is too late. Which was probably why I was glad that the deal didn’t go through. One reason why I am so attached to it is because I have wore it to so many important events, in which I have met so many important and significant people in my life. So much so that it has became a part of me. Another reason is really retarded, but this watch actually reminds me of someone, someone whom is quite significant in my life. I realised how much I miss this watch when I was about to lose it. Yes, the Rolex 6694 is a wonderful watch, but something that my friend said had changed my mind totally. Her exact words were “Wonder why you decided to sell something you’re so obviously attached to”. At that point of time, I knew I had made the wrong decision. Which was why I was quite relieved when the person told me that he had changed his mind about the trade. This would probably be one of the watches that I would keep for many years to come. 

 The Omega Seamaster Caliber 562

Subsequently, I owned the Tag Heuer Carrera 5 Automatic. This watch has taught me the importance of being patient, as well as to grasp opportunities when they come along. Managed to get this watch at a really good price, wore it a few times, and flipped it after that. Chanced upon this piece quite by chance, but if I didn’t take up this offer back then, I wouldn’t have gained a profit within such a short time. (Ok but honestly, other than that, my experience with this watch was so short that I don’t think I learn anything else other than the principle of “buying low and selling [slightly] higher).

The Tag Heuer Carrera 5 Automatic

After that, I bought the JeanRichard Paramount Chronograph. This was a mistake actually. Wanted to flip it again, but it was unsuccessful. What it has taught me is that in life, things doesn’t go as planned, and that we should accept failure with an open mind. This experience didn’t stop me from collecting and flipping watches, but rather it has taught me to be more prudence in my purchases. It has taught me that at times, we shouldn’t be rash. A pretty small price to pay actually, if I am able to gain such a valuable life lesson that is not taught in classrooms or in lecture halls.

The JeanRichard Paramount Chronograph

The next purchase is the Rolex Submariner, reference 114060. It has taught me about hard work, support and love. I earned this watch through hard work (and also partially from the benevolence from my parents la, HAHAHA!). It has taught me that things doesn’t come easy, and that if you want to achieve something, you have to work hard to get it. If you do not have the drive, then don’t bother dreaming about it in the first place. It has also taught me that in whatever you do, not only hard work matters, but the support that you’ve received in the process is equally important as well. I’m sure without all the support from my friends and family, I wouldn’t have achieved what I wanted through hard work alone. And without that I wouldn’t have gotten this watch la. HAHAHA!

 The Rolex Submariner 114060

Finally, the Seiko Fifty Five Fathom. It has taught me that life can be interesting and exciting if one steps out of their comfort zone once in a while. I was never a fan of watch modification, but I was “poisoned’ by forumers who modified their Seiko 5 into the Seiko Fifty Five Fathom. Even though the process of modifying the watch is quite tedious, but the end result was simply amazing. This watch feels just so much more than the original Seiko 5. It has also taught me that you don’t have to spend so much money to have fun, and that inexpensive stuffs are not terrible stuffs. Even though this watch is relatively inexpensive, but it performs very well, and that it is just such a joy to wear and own this watch. Of course, it cannot compete with the Blancpain Fifty Fathom, but I can do with this homage version at the time being. In fact, this watch looks so good that it has received plenty of praises from many people. And the best part is that, it is one of the cheapest watch in my collection. Understated, not fanciful, but yet it is just so brilliant. Sometimes, things doesn’t need to be extravagant, but as long as you can make use of what is available to you, I’m sure you’ll be able to lead a colourful and enjoyable life.

 

The Seiko Fifty Five Fathom

So, this is basically my journey into horology so far. Even though it is still pretty short, but I have learnt tremendously during this period of time. I do hope that some of you would like to share about your thoughts on this topic, as well as the things that you’ve learnt from horology too. Till then, thanks and see ya!

P.S. I would most probably do a review on the Seiko Fifty Five Fathom soon, so stay tune!