A Letter to My Readers

Dear Readers,

 

These 3 months have been a really wonderful journey for me. I never thought that I would have received so much support from all of you guys. This blog wouldn’t have been possible without you all.

As some of you know, I will be taking my “A” Levels this year, in fact in less than 2 months’ time. Therefore, I would like to focus on my examinations first, and as a result I will be taking a hiatus from writing. Hope you guys will understand, and don’t worry, there will be more exciting contents once I am back! Stay tune, and here is a sneak peek of what you all can expect!

 

The Rolex Oysterdate Precision Ref: 6694

 

The Rolex Submariner Ref: 114060

 

See you all soon!

Regards,

Robin Lim

[Thoughts] Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève 2013

Well, the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (or GPHG, for short) is here again, for the 2013 edition.

For those who don’t know what GPHG is, it is an annual event that showcases the art of watchmaking, in which various prizes given out to watches or watchmakers that are considered the best in its own category. It is the Swiss watch industry’s most prestigious award competition.

In this year’s edition, there are 10 categories of “Pre-Selected watches” that are already out, mainly the “Grande Complication watch”, “Ladies’ watch”, “Ladies’ Complication watch”, “Men’s Watch”, “Men’s Complication watch”, “Innovation watch”, “Jewellery watch”, “Artistic Crafts watch”, “Sports watch” and the “Petite Aiguille watch”.

Well, even though I am not part of the jury in the competition, but hey, this can’t stop me from selecting my favourite watches from each category right? Let us begin then, without further ado! (Please note that the views expressed are my opinions only. Please don’t kill me if you strongly disagree with my choice :D)

The Grande Complication Watches

As the title suggests, watches in this category will contain complications, such as Perpetual Calender to Tourbillions. The pre-selected watches in this category are really amazing, aesthetically and mechanically. Among the 7 watches in the category, I’d say my two favourites would be the A. Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calender and Greubel Forsey’s GMT. In my opinion, the complications of these two watches are amazing, with the Lange possessing some features such as the Perpetual Calender, Split Second Chronograph and Moonphrase, and the latter possessing interesting functions such as the Tourbillion, Global Time and the Second Time Zone.

[Verdict]

In my humble opinion, I would pick the A Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. It was a tough decision, especially since Greubel Forsey’s piece was really aesthetically staggering (and the globe at the 7.30 position is just, for the lack of a better work, amazing). However, complications wise, the Lange edged out, especially with its Split Second Chronograph and the Perpetual Calendar. And of course, it is still aesthetically pleasing, after all.

The A. Lange and Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The Ladies’ Watches

The watches in this category is obviously for the ladies. Even without the title, the diamond-laced watches, without a doubt, will definitely attract the ladies already. As a member of the male population, it is obviously not my forte to pick watches that I believe a lady would like. But there is no harm trying here, I guess? Two watches, out of the seven, stood out here. The Zenith Pilot  d’Aéronef Type 20 “40 mm Lady” and the Louis Moinet Stardance. In my opinion, they are aesthically pleasing and they look more like watches, rather than jewellery pieces to me. The Chopard Happy Sport came close, but I feel that it is leaning too close to a jewellery, rather than watch.

[Verdict]

While I am a big fan of both watches, the Louis Moinet gets my vote. It is just so gorgeous and elegant. And don’t get me started on the “Mother of Pearl” dial, as well as its wavy dial designs. The Moonphase is done beautifully as well, and I really think it is one of the most beautiful Moonphases that I’ve ever seen before. This is definitely a clear winner here.

The Louis Moinet “Stardance” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The Ladies’ Complication Watches

Once again, I have to do something in which I am not good at. But oh well. The watches here are less complicated than the Men’s, but do not let that fool you. Some pieces here have very impressive complications as well. For example, Van Cleef and Arpel’s  has a double retrograde hands, and Bovet 1822’s “Recital 9 Tourbillion Miss Alexandra” has, well, Tourbillion. But well, the diamonds here are probably more interesting to a majority of the females. Oops. Did I just generalised the female watch collectors? Sorry!

[Verdict]

I’d say that Van Cleef and Arpels’ “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee” is the winner here. Even though it does not have a Tourbillion or a Minute Repeater, but its Retrograde hands and the “Time on Demand” complication is simply intriguing. And oh, did I mention that it looks really beautiful too?

Van Cleef and Arpels’ “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantee” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Men’s Watch

The selection of the pre-selected winners here are pretty diversified. Here, you have value for money pieces like the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, to the more exclusive pieces like the Voutilainen V-8R. They vary in complications too, with “three-hand watches” like the Baume & Mercier’s Clifton 1830 and Tudor’s Black Bay, to more complicated watches like Urban Jurgensen & Sonner’s offerings which has got Power Reserve.

[Verdict]

The MB&F’s Horological Machine No.5 “On the Road Again” gets my vote this time. Its futuristic designs, as well as its uniqueness, has outshone the other competing watches. While both H. Moser & Cie’s Mayu and Voutilainen’s V-8R make good dress watches for the male, but the MB&F is just so different. So distinct. So outstanding among the rest. And the best part is, does this watch reminds you of the sexy Lamborghini Miura from the 60s?

The MB&F’s Horological Machine No.5 “On the Road Again” (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Men’s Complications Watch

Again, this category is very diversified. We have watches that has simpler complications, like Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue, to more complicated ones like Fonderie 47’s Inversion Principle. There are many pieces in this category which are really desirable, especially De Bethune’s DB28 Skybridge and Greubel Forsey’s Double Balanicer 35°. While watches here may not be as complicated as the ones from “Grande Complications”, but nevertheless, the watches here are more than enough for normal day-to-day usage.

[Verdict]

Quoted from GPHG’s website:

“A true first in Horology, The Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed‐oscillators.
This unique regulating system comprises two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates via the gear train to the time display.”

Isn’t that good enough for it to win the award? And combined with its looks, I see no reason why it is not good enough to win this category. Of course, De Bethune is really beautiful too, but complications wise, the Greubel Forsey wins hands down.

The Greubel Forsey’s Double Balanicer 35° (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Innovation Watches

Ah well, this is where all the creative juices from watchmakers come together to create timepieces that are well, just out of this world. Literally. This is definitely one of the most difficult category to pick. There are just simply too many special and innovative watches here. HYT’s offering is definitely one of the more special ones, since it uses hydraulics to display time. And who can forget the offerings from Ressence and Vianney Halter? They are all so unique in their own ways. It’s really a marvel to see how innovative ideas can be squeezed into something that is so small. These guys here really have my (and deserves) my respect.

[Verdict]

The Ressence Type 3 is my choice here.

Quoted from GPHG:

“The display system is bathed in an oil-type fluid that eliminates the refraction of the light projecting the image onto the glass and is hermetically separated from the mechanical movement connected via a magnetic transmission. Time is displayed by revolving co-planar convex discs. A Faraday cage protects the movement.”

All these things. They are all in a 44mm package. Who would have thought of that? And the looks of it, it’s just like something that comes out from a Sci-Fi movie. It just looks so unreal. I wonder how many brain cells have been sacrificed to come up with such an innovative watch.

The Ressence Type 3 (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Sports Watches

I am skipping both the “Jewellery Watches” and the “Artistic Craft Watches”. Sorry, I don’t want to undergo the trouble of choosing watches that I do not really appreciate. I am just not that kind of artistic person. Forgive me.

Well, I digressed. Sports watches are something very popular these days, due to its versatility. You can wear it with a suit, or just with a simple T-Shirt. Anything goes. And nobody here will disagree with me when it comes to their ruggedness. They are just so reliable, and they make really good “daily beaters”, for day-to-day usage. There are some choices here that are questionable, such as the Habring2’s Doppel 3, but there are many watches here which fits the bill really well, such as Tudor’s Pelagos, Chopard’s Superfast Power Control and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver. And who can forget Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th, the first watch which broke the sound barrier when it accompanied Felix Baumgartner on his epic adventure?

[Verdict]

it was a close fight between AP, Tudor and the Zenith. Tudor came in third, not because it was not good, but then it simply lacks the “wow factor” that the other two possess. While the AP is a timeless classic, the winner goes to Zenith. It has a 1/10th of a second and Flyback chronograph, a classical design, and it broke the sound barrier. This is more than you could ever ask for. ‘Nuff said.

The Zenith’s El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

The “Petite Aiguille” Watches

Ok, this is intriguing. What is this award? Well, the prize of “La Petite Aiguille” is awarded to the best watch of the year whose price is under 5,000 Swiss francs ($5,166 USD). While our eyes have feasted on eye-watering watches which has got exorbitant price tags, lets not forget about the simpler, and equally amazing watches that are price relatively more affordable too. There are so many watches here that are deserving of this award, such as the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield, to the Chopard Mille Miglia 2013. For under 5,000 Swiss Francs, it is amazing how you can get watches that have some great complications.

[Verdict]

While I may have preferred more complicated watches, the Speake-Marin Spirit MKII gets my vote. What makes it stands out from the others is that is from an independent watchmaker, and to offer something below 5,000 Swiss Franc is something that is really remarkable for an independent. The quality of the watch is simply exceptional too. I may not be a fortune-teller, but I can definitely tell you that Speake-Marin is an up-and-coming brand, and I have no doubts that they will be up against the big names someday. Mark my words. This is just the tip of the iceberg.

  The Speake-Marin Spirit MKII (Picture courtesy of GPHG)

Well, this is the end of my report on the Pre-Selected watches from the GPHG. Some of my choices may no doubt be controversial, but with so many exceptional watches here, it is really difficult to pick a winner for each category. Thanks for reading, and do share your thoughts on you have any, especially if it is regarding my choices! And please do share your choices too. It’d be interesting to see what your perspectives are.